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Skip Trowel Textures
This most resembles a spanish style stucco.
Start with the splatter technique, a heavier mixture as you are trying for splatters the size of a quarter. splatter the area and let it dry about 10-15 minutes. Tkae a 6" wide spackle knife or use a food spatula for the lack of anything else. Lightly drag it across the surface and flatten the blobs of texture. Cris cross the area in diffenent directions so as not to create a definite pattern.
Finished drywall is often "Textured" either for sound deadening or most times, to simply hide an imperfect taping job.
First we will discuss the different types of textures.
Popcorn:
This is a heavy texture normally used on ceilings for helping to deaden sound, it also is the worlds best dust and dirt collector, will hide even the worst of taping jobs and is very difficult to paint.
Splatter or Orangepeel
These textures range from a series of small "blobs" of splatter to an overall fine spray much like the texture of an orangepeel.
Application:
For ceilings and large wall areas it is best to rent a drywall spray rig which is a small aircompressor and a drywall hopper. You can purchase ready mixed spray materials in dry form and mix it on the job using a large 1/2" drill and mixing paddle also available at most rental centers. You mix the spray material the consistency of runny oatmeal, pour it into the hopper and spray. This is a very messy job as the spray goes all over the place so it requires that you mask off all areas that need protecting. The hoppers have a variety of holes on the face of the gun where you can adjust the size of the texture you are applying.
Other Options: You can apply most all the textures with a roller. The heavy textures like popcorn will not come out quite as even and uniform but there is a lot less mess from overspray. Most all wall textures are easy to apply using a roller. You will find a variety of brands at your local building or home supply center.
If you are doing a small repair and need to match the surrounding area, take a look at some of these techniques at the Texture Repairs Tutorial.
How to Texture your Drywall Repair
Once you have finished your repair and sanded it smooth as we discussed in How to Finish Drywall you are now ready to apply the texture to match the surrounding area. For these small repairs I will use ready mixed joint compound as you will more than likely have some left from your taping.
Thin down a small amount of the compound with water until it is the consistency of runny oatmeal.
"Orangpeel" texture:
use a 1/4" or 3/8" nap roller and apply the heavy mixture to the patched area. Roll out quite thin in all directions and finish by laying off all in one direction, either from top down or bottom up so that the pattern of the texture is all going in the same direction. When dry take a piece of 150 grit sandpaper, rub it briskly on a piece of concrete to wear it out and LIGHTLY sand off the tiny tips of the texture leaving a fine series of craters which will match the orangepeel very well.
As with all texture repair jobs, the patched area should be primed with a latex primer prior to applying the finish paint.
Knockdown or Skiptrowel texture:
Start with the splatter technique, a heavier mixture as you are trying for splatters the size of a quarter. splatter the area and let it dry about 10-15 minutes. Tkae a 6" wide spackle knife or use a food spatula for the lack of anything else. Lightly drag it across the surface and flatten the blobs of texture. Cris cross the area in diffenent directions so as not to create a definite pattern.
Splatter texture:
Here again we will use the same mix. This time we will apply the texture using a stucco tampico brush these are inexpensive long bristle brushes normally about 5"-6" wide.,
You simply dip the brush into the thinned down mixture and "fling" it onto the wall with a short flipping action. Its really a lot easier than it sounds. If the "splatters" are larger than the surrounding area simply thin the mixture down some and thicken if the splatters are too small thicken the mix.
Popcorn:
You can buy texture in a dry form and mix with water, roll-a- tex is one brand that comes to mind, use your tampico brush and dab the repaired area with a heavy coat. by using a dabbin and brushing combination you will be able to apply enough material to the repaired area to match the surrounding pretty well. Of course the color will not match but you can spot paint with a tinted off white and blend it in.
Finishing Drywall-Step by Step
Seams and Joints
I recommend this sequence as it allows you to keep working while various sections are drying.
Start with the butt joints (where two boards meet end to end ), then move on to the inside and outside corners, you can only do one side at a time, If you try to finish both sides at once, your knife will foul the first side while you work on the second, these require the most time. Then move on to the tapered joints (those edges along the long side of the board that are tapered at the factory ), and last of all we will do the fastener areas,use these for fill in while you are waiting for other areas to dry.
Taping the Seams and joints.
The seams require a total of three coats of "mud".
The first application will imbed the tape in a thin layer of mud and bond it to the board, this is is known as the "Tape Coat".
Using your 5 or 6" knife,apply a thin 1/8"-1/4" thick coat over the center of the seam, appx 4"-5" wide. Once applied lightly drag your knife the entire length to kind of evenout the thickness. Now, tear off a length of tape about the length of the seam and starting at one end, lay it over the center of the joint. Press it lightly with you hand--just to make it stick for now.
Now go back and using your knife flatten the tape into the mud, use pretty firm pressure with this stroke, and work from the center of the length of tape out to the ends. You are trying to remove the excess mud, and just leave a thin layer under the tape.
Allow this to dry and then apply a coat of mud over the top of your tape. This is to hide the tape and requires, about a 1/4" - 1/2" layer of mud applied evenly over the top , this time we simply remove most of it. Smooth it out with a stroke down each side, then one down the middle. For the side strokes, put more pressure on the outside of the knife and let it ride a little high in the center. For the center stroke keep even pressure on the knife, we are trying to create a little crown,higher in the center over the tape and tapering out to nothing on the sides.
With factory tapered edges, (they are slightly beveled on the edges) this coat should extend about two inches wider on each side than the tape. Butt-joints, having no taper on the edge, will require you to feather them even farther than with the factory joints.
After this coat is done you should not be able to see the joint tape itself as it is completely covered with a layer of mud.
Allow this to dry and then using your 5" knife like a scraper, run it along all the tape joints removing any ridges or globs of mud. You should do this inbetween each aplication.
Next you will apply your third coat to the seams, known as the "skim" coat. For this coat follow the same procedure but now you will be using wider knife, an 8" to 12". As before, apply pressure when you "pull" the sides and very light when you pull thru the center.
This completes the taping of the seams. Look them over and check them by holding a straight edge across the seam onto the wallboard, if you see a big indent or crown you will have to add more mud and taper the joint out farther.
Removing Texture~~Painting
Popcorn ceilings, a cure-all for drywall contractors... a nightmare for homeowners.
If you are one of the unfortunate owners of a home with popcorn ceilings sooner or later you are going to be faced with the task of either removing the texture or painting it. Both are a pain in the neck and hopefully we can make it a little easier.
Warning: Some of the older popcorn texture contains asbestos a known cancer causing material. Even if you are not sure if yours does or does not it is wise when removing popcorn to wear a respirator, eye protection and cover exposed skin.
Popcorn is made up of primarily chalk, a little clay and an aggregate.
This becomes a soft gooey mess when wet and removing is a very messy operation. Painting too is messy but once it is painted, repainting in the future is not very troublesome.
Removing: Begin by removing as much furniture as possible, cover what remains with plastic drop cloths or buy a small roll of visqueen plastic. Begin by wetting the texture and we have found that using a small pump up type garden sprayer makes this task a lot easier. After 10 minutes or so the texture will become very soft. At this point you can take a 6" to 12" wide drywall finishing knife and scrape the texture off.
Hold a small trash can or bucket under the knife as you scrape so that the texture drops into the bucket.
Another procedure is to tape the tool to a 4'-5' roller pole or push broom handle and scrape from the floor allowing the texture to fall on the plastic covering the floor. When finished bundle up the plastic and toss the whole mess in the trash.
Avoid wetting an area more that 2-3 times as you do not want the drywall board itself to become saturated resulting in sagging.
Allow the ceiling to dry thoroughly and then lightly sand using a sanding pole and screen cloth. Screen cloth is an open mesh material that will smooth the surface without abrading the paper of the drywall board.
Prime the ceiling using (preferably) an oil base primer or if latex is your choice use one of the stain /seal variety's like KILZ-2 or Zinsser 1-2-3.
Allow the primer to dry and then apply a coat of flat white latex finish paint.
Painting an existing popcorn ceiling:
Here we are faced with trying to paint a very soft super absorbent material. In order to get good penetration for bonding and also stop the suction to conserve paint, we need to prime first using a thinned down latex flat finish paint or latex primer. If you have more than one room to do you might consider renting an airless sprayer to make short work of the job.
Spraying is not cost effective for one small room so rolling is the answer.
Set yourself up with a 5 gallon pail, roller grid insert for the pail, 3/4" - 1 3/4" nap roller cover and a 4' extension pole that you can screw into the roller frame. Thin the paint with a pint or so of the appropriate thinner as you are going to apply in small sections and quickly. Rolling back and forth as you normally would softens the texture and it will cling to the roller cover and you will remove it. Saturate the cover well with paint, run it up and down the roller grid a few times to distribute the paint evenly and using a light stroke, roll at first away from you, back lightly, stop and reload your roller.
Do not be concerned about how well it is covering, you are just trying to get enough paint on the texture to "toughen" it up for the finish coat of paint.
Allow your primer to dry overnight and then apply your finish flat latex ceiling paint. You will get a lot more square footage per gallon with your finish paint due to the fact that it is now sealed.
Finishing Drywall-Step by Step
Seams and Joints
I recommend this sequence as it allows you to keep working while various sections are drying.
Start with the butt joints (where two boards meet end to end ), then move on to the inside and outside corners, you can only do one side at a time, If you try to finish both sides at once, your knife will foul the first side while you work on the second, these require the most time. Then move on to the tapered joints (those edges along the long side of the board that are tapered at the factory ), and last of all we will do the fastener areas,use these for fill in while you are waiting for other areas to dry.
Taping the Seams and joints.
The seams require a total of three coats of "mud".
The first application will imbed the tape in a thin layer of mud and bond it to the board, this is is known as the "Tape Coat".
Using your 5 or 6" knife,apply a thin 1/8"-1/4" thick coat over the center of the seam, appx 4"-5" wide. Once applied lightly drag your knife the entire length to kind of evenout the thickness. Now, tear off a length of tape about the length of the seam and starting at one end, lay it over the center of the joint. Press it lightly with you hand--just to make it stick for now.
Now go back and using your knife flatten the tape into the mud, use pretty firm pressure with this stroke, and work from the center of the length of tape out to the ends. You are trying to remove the excess mud, and just leave a thin layer under the tape.
Allow this to dry and then apply a coat of mud over the top of your tape. This is to hide the tape and requires, about a 1/4" - 1/2" layer of mud applied evenly over the top , this time we simply remove most of it. Smooth it out with a stroke down each side, then one down the middle. For the side strokes, put more pressure on the outside of the knife and let it ride a little high in the center. For the center stroke keep even pressure on the knife, we are trying to create a little crown,higher in the center over the tape and tapering out to nothing on the sides.
With factory tapered edges, (they are slightly beveled on the edges) this coat should extend about two inches wider on each side than the tape. Butt-joints, having no taper on the edge, will require you to feather them even farther than with the factory joints.
After this coat is done you should not be able to see the joint tape itself as it is completely covered with a layer of mud.
Allow this to dry and then using your 5" knife like a scraper, run it along all the tape joints removing any ridges or globs of mud. You should do this inbetween each aplication.
Next you will apply your third coat to the seams, known as the "skim" coat. For this coat follow the same procedure but now you will be using wider knife, an 8" to 12". As before, apply pressure when you "pull" the sides and very light when you pull thru the center.
This completes the taping of the seams. Look them over and check them by holding a straight edge across the seam onto the wallboard, if you see a big indent or crown you will have to add more mud and taper the joint out farther.
Finishing Drywall-Step by Step
Corners and Fasteners
The inside and outside corners have to be finished one side at a time.
You need to apply the mud with a 3" knife for inside corners and a 5 or 6" knife for outside corners. Notice that the outside edge of the corner bead is higher than the surface of the wallboard. The idea is to taper from that edge to the board over a span of 5" or so making it very gradual. This normally takes at least three applications. On the first application shoot for corner to board width of about 2-3", second pass 3-4" and finally a full 5" finishing width. Remember to use your knife to scrape off any globs or ridges prior to applying each coat.
With inside corners you will need to imbed a piece of tape. Apply a thin coat of mud to both sides of the corner, 2"-3" out. Take a length of paper tape starting at one end pinch the ends together and pull it thru your free hand "creasing it" so that it forms a right angle. Lightly place it into the inside corner top to bottom and using your 3-5" knife, from the center towards the top and bottom, firmly press it onto the board.
Wipe off any excess mud and allow to dry before applying additional coats. When applying the second coat, pull only one side at a time,allow to dry and then apply another. If you try and mud both sides at the same time you will keep messing up either one side or the other so do one side, allow to dry then mud the second side. When the second coat is dry if you can still see the tape, apply a third and final coat.
You can work on the corners while you are waiting for the tape joints to dry.
Your nail and/or screws need three applications of mud to cover them well. Simply apply one coat,allow to dry,scrape off ridges and globs of excess mud apply the next coat and so on.
When you have finished your taping and finishing you are ready to prepare the new drywall for paint or wallpaper.
Finishing Drywall-Step by Step
Corners and Fasteners
The inside and outside corners have to be finished one side at a time.
You need to apply the mud with a 3" knife for inside corners and a 5 or 6" knife for outside corners. Notice that the outside edge of the corner bead is higher than the surface of the wallboard. The idea is to taper from that edge to the board over a span of 5" or so making it very gradual. This normally takes at least three applications. On the first application shoot for corner to board width of about 2-3", second pass 3-4" and finally a full 5" finishing width. Remember to use your knife to scrape off any globs or ridges prior to applying each coat.
With inside corners you will need to imbed a piece of tape. Apply a thin coat of mud to both sides of the corner, 2"-3" out. Take a length of paper tape starting at one end pinch the ends together and pull it thru your free hand "creasing it" so that it forms a right angle. Lightly place it into the inside corner top to bottom and using your 3-5" knife, from the center towards the top and bottom, firmly press it onto the board.
Wipe off any excess mud and allow to dry before applying additional coats. When applying the second coat, pull only one side at a time,allow to dry and then apply another. If you try and mud both sides at the same time you will keep messing up either one side or the other so do one side, allow to dry then mud the second side. When the second coat is dry if you can still see the tape, apply a third and final coat.
You can work on the corners while you are waiting for the tape joints to dry.
Your nail and/or screws need three applications of mud to cover them well. Simply apply one coat,allow to dry,scrape off ridges and globs of excess mud apply the next coat and so on.
When you have finished your taping and finishing you are ready to prepare the new drywall for paint or wallpaper.
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